There are several different types of leather used in furniture production. This list is not comprehensive but it is a good start.

• Nubuck (buffed) - Process of raising fibers on the grain-side of a hide to give a nap effect by buffing.
• Naked/Full-Aniline - Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a transparent dye which permeates the entire hide. However, there is no pigment (paint) or finish put on pure aniline-dyed leather to correct or hide imperfections. Best suited for light use.
• Semi-Aniline - Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a transparent dye, which permeates the entire hide. However, there is either a clear lacquer or slightly pigmented finish applied to improve resistance to wear and light. Slightly more durable than full-aniline.
• Pigmented - Hides that are aniline-dyed, then treated with a heavy pigment (paint) and top coating. Ideal for heavy use or active families.
• Corrected, Pigmented & Embossed - Pigmented leather that has been totally buffed of any imperfections, then embossed with an artificial grain to improve the appearance.
• Split - The bottom layer of the hide, which has been separated from the top grain. Split hides are generally weaker than top grain leather and may be used in less expensive upholstered furniture applications. Split hides are not recommended for heavy use.
• Suede - Process of raising fibers of the flesh-side of the hide to give a nap effect by buffing.
• Tanning - A technical process that converts raw hides into a non-perishable material called leather.

Before attempting to clean a spill or spot on your furniture, you should identify the fabric and correct cleaning method recommended by the manufacturer.

This information is represented by a cleaning code (W, S, WS or X) often found under a cushion, on the bottom of the furniture or on the manufacturer’s tag. If you cannot find this information, contact your sales representative at the furniture store where the item was purchased.  Knowing this information can save you a world of trouble down the road!

Fabric Codes

• “W” Spot clean with water-based cleaner.
• “S” Spot clean ONLY with mild water-free solvent cleaner.
• “WS” Spot clean with water-based or solvent cleaner.
• “X” Clean only by vacuuming or light brushing.

Here a few short tips to help you take good care of your upholstered furniture.  Many of the newer fabrics are made to endure hard use but using common sense when caring for them is always good.

• Re-arrange the furniture occasionally to ensure even use of the cushions and wear areas. Reverse loose cushions weekly.
• Vacuum often to remove grit that can cause abrasion.
• Caution those wearing clothing with transferable dyes, such as blue jeans, that the dye could transfer onto light-colored furniture.
• Protect fabrics from the sun. Ultraviolet light (sunlight) will cause fiber degeneration and color fade. Fabrics should not be placed in direct sunlight, as this may cause fading. Occasionally, dyes can fade from impurities within the air.
• Keep pets off the furniture. Pet urine and pet body oil can be difficult to remove. Use proper care with structural weave fabrics (design created by the weave) to protect against snags.

Your new mattress will help create a restful sleep environment. Be sure to ask your retailer for advice about properly moving your new mattress and foundation into your home. Improper installation can damage your new sleep set.

General Mattress Care Tips

• Turn and rotate a new mattress every few weeks to help smooth out contours. After a few months, turn and rotate your mattress twice a year to help equalize the wear and tear that normally occurs. Also remember to rotate your foundation as well.
• Avoid using the handles to support the full weight of the mattress. Typically, handles are designed to help you position the mattress over the foundation. If used improperly, handles may pull out and damage the fabric.
• Vacuum your mattress and foundation for general maintenance. Use a Guardsman mattress pad to help keep the sleep set free from stains.

Wood furniture represents a significant investment in many homes.  To maintain its beauty and help it last, wood furniture needs regular and proper care.  Most wood furniture is finished with a fine lacquer or varnish.  It has a sheen – or gloss – ranging from high to low, depending on the finishing materials the manufacturer has selected.  The finish adds to the beauty of the wood and protects it.  No finish is totally indestructible, but with regular care and it will last much longer.  Providing years of satisfaction and enjoyment.
 
General Wood Care Tips 

• Dust frequently.  The Guardsman Fine Furniture Dust Cloth is treated to attract and hold dust and leave furniture spotless. 
• Use a quality furniture polish, such as Guardsman’s Furniture Polish.  It will lessen your chance of expensive refinishing jobs.  Polish approximately once a month. 
• Clean up spills immediately.  Use a blotting action rather than a wiping action.
• Use a soft, lint-free absorbent cloth for cleaning and polishing. The Guardsman Polishing Cloth is ideal for this purpose.
• Avoid placing furniture in direct sunlight, as sunlight causes fading.
• Avoid extremes in room humidity. Too high or too low humidity can cause wood to warp or the glue lines to fail.
• Avoid extreme changes in temperature. Arrange furniture away from radiators, registers, and air-conditioning units.
• Rotate accessories on furniture so they do not sit in the same spot all of the time.
• Avoid placing plastic or rubber objects on a wood finish, as their ingredients react with those of the finish. Use pads, cloth or felt to protect the furniture surface from plastic, rubber, hot dishes, beverages, bookends, flower pots, and vases.
• Use a protective pad when writing with a ballpoint pen.
• Lift and place objects, do not drag them across the furniture surface.
• Make minor repairs while they are still small.
• Use the proper materials or professional help to repair badly damaged surfaces.
• Avoid wax polishes. Regular use of wax polishes may result in the build-up of wax film on the surface of the furniture. This build-up may then pick up dirt, smoke and other pollutants in the air, which may result in smudges and streaks. Used long enough, this may cause the finish to soften, requiring expensive refinishing work. Wax build-up over time hardens, making it difficult to remove from the furniture’s finish.
• Avoid silicone polishes. Silicone oil is an ingredient used by many furniture polish makers to create a high degree of shine. Silicone seeps into even the most lacquered finishes, making it difficult to remove. Should it become necessary to refinish a piece of furniture, silicone makes it a very difficult process, even for a professional refinisher. Most furniture manufacturers recommend using polishes that do not contain silicone.

** This material provided courtesy of Guardsman Furniture Care Company.

I signed on last month to help my good friend Leann Murphy of the Cenla Red Cross raise money for the many needs they are facing this year. 

It seems like at least once a month we see families in our furniture store who are trying to replace their furnishings after a tragic home fire.  I’m glad to know there organizations like the Red Cross to help during those times.

My goal is to raise at least a 1000 dollars.  Would you consider helping?  I’m donating a portion of my personal commisions this month but I’m running a little behind the deadline. I figure they’ll still accept our donations right?

You can donate directly to my Red Cross fund through Paypal and Chipin.com

I recently came across this video explaining the different kinds of woods used in furniture and the benefits of each.  This is really helpful.  A lot of the furniture in our store is a veneered wood product but is made very well.  There is a real difference between “particle board” and “MDF” and this craftsman shows it very well.