There are several different types of leather used in furniture production. This list is not comprehensive but it is a good start.

• Nubuck (buffed) - Process of raising fibers on the grain-side of a hide to give a nap effect by buffing.
• Naked/Full-Aniline - Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a transparent dye which permeates the entire hide. However, there is no pigment (paint) or finish put on pure aniline-dyed leather to correct or hide imperfections. Best suited for light use.
• Semi-Aniline - Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a transparent dye, which permeates the entire hide. However, there is either a clear lacquer or slightly pigmented finish applied to improve resistance to wear and light. Slightly more durable than full-aniline.
• Pigmented - Hides that are aniline-dyed, then treated with a heavy pigment (paint) and top coating. Ideal for heavy use or active families.
• Corrected, Pigmented & Embossed - Pigmented leather that has been totally buffed of any imperfections, then embossed with an artificial grain to improve the appearance.
• Split - The bottom layer of the hide, which has been separated from the top grain. Split hides are generally weaker than top grain leather and may be used in less expensive upholstered furniture applications. Split hides are not recommended for heavy use.
• Suede - Process of raising fibers of the flesh-side of the hide to give a nap effect by buffing.
• Tanning - A technical process that converts raw hides into a non-perishable material called leather.

Before attempting to clean a spill or spot on your furniture, you should identify the fabric and correct cleaning method recommended by the manufacturer.

This information is represented by a cleaning code (W, S, WS or X) often found under a cushion, on the bottom of the furniture or on the manufacturer’s tag. If you cannot find this information, contact your sales representative at the furniture store where the item was purchased.  Knowing this information can save you a world of trouble down the road!

Fabric Codes

• “W” Spot clean with water-based cleaner.
• “S” Spot clean ONLY with mild water-free solvent cleaner.
• “WS” Spot clean with water-based or solvent cleaner.
• “X” Clean only by vacuuming or light brushing.

Here a few short tips to help you take good care of your upholstered furniture.  Many of the newer fabrics are made to endure hard use but using common sense when caring for them is always good.

• Re-arrange the furniture occasionally to ensure even use of the cushions and wear areas. Reverse loose cushions weekly.
• Vacuum often to remove grit that can cause abrasion.
• Caution those wearing clothing with transferable dyes, such as blue jeans, that the dye could transfer onto light-colored furniture.
• Protect fabrics from the sun. Ultraviolet light (sunlight) will cause fiber degeneration and color fade. Fabrics should not be placed in direct sunlight, as this may cause fading. Occasionally, dyes can fade from impurities within the air.
• Keep pets off the furniture. Pet urine and pet body oil can be difficult to remove. Use proper care with structural weave fabrics (design created by the weave) to protect against snags.

Your new mattress will help create a restful sleep environment. Be sure to ask your retailer for advice about properly moving your new mattress and foundation into your home. Improper installation can damage your new sleep set.

General Mattress Care Tips

• Turn and rotate a new mattress every few weeks to help smooth out contours. After a few months, turn and rotate your mattress twice a year to help equalize the wear and tear that normally occurs. Also remember to rotate your foundation as well.
• Avoid using the handles to support the full weight of the mattress. Typically, handles are designed to help you position the mattress over the foundation. If used improperly, handles may pull out and damage the fabric.
• Vacuum your mattress and foundation for general maintenance. Use a Guardsman mattress pad to help keep the sleep set free from stains.

Wood furniture represents a significant investment in many homes.  To maintain its beauty and help it last, wood furniture needs regular and proper care.  Most wood furniture is finished with a fine lacquer or varnish.  It has a sheen – or gloss – ranging from high to low, depending on the finishing materials the manufacturer has selected.  The finish adds to the beauty of the wood and protects it.  No finish is totally indestructible, but with regular care and it will last much longer.  Providing years of satisfaction and enjoyment.
 
General Wood Care Tips 

• Dust frequently.  The Guardsman Fine Furniture Dust Cloth is treated to attract and hold dust and leave furniture spotless. 
• Use a quality furniture polish, such as Guardsman’s Furniture Polish.  It will lessen your chance of expensive refinishing jobs.  Polish approximately once a month. 
• Clean up spills immediately.  Use a blotting action rather than a wiping action.
• Use a soft, lint-free absorbent cloth for cleaning and polishing. The Guardsman Polishing Cloth is ideal for this purpose.
• Avoid placing furniture in direct sunlight, as sunlight causes fading.
• Avoid extremes in room humidity. Too high or too low humidity can cause wood to warp or the glue lines to fail.
• Avoid extreme changes in temperature. Arrange furniture away from radiators, registers, and air-conditioning units.
• Rotate accessories on furniture so they do not sit in the same spot all of the time.
• Avoid placing plastic or rubber objects on a wood finish, as their ingredients react with those of the finish. Use pads, cloth or felt to protect the furniture surface from plastic, rubber, hot dishes, beverages, bookends, flower pots, and vases.
• Use a protective pad when writing with a ballpoint pen.
• Lift and place objects, do not drag them across the furniture surface.
• Make minor repairs while they are still small.
• Use the proper materials or professional help to repair badly damaged surfaces.
• Avoid wax polishes. Regular use of wax polishes may result in the build-up of wax film on the surface of the furniture. This build-up may then pick up dirt, smoke and other pollutants in the air, which may result in smudges and streaks. Used long enough, this may cause the finish to soften, requiring expensive refinishing work. Wax build-up over time hardens, making it difficult to remove from the furniture’s finish.
• Avoid silicone polishes. Silicone oil is an ingredient used by many furniture polish makers to create a high degree of shine. Silicone seeps into even the most lacquered finishes, making it difficult to remove. Should it become necessary to refinish a piece of furniture, silicone makes it a very difficult process, even for a professional refinisher. Most furniture manufacturers recommend using polishes that do not contain silicone.

** This material provided courtesy of Guardsman Furniture Care Company.

There are several different kinds of leather used in furniture production.  This list is not expansive but is a good start:

• Nubuck (buffed) - Process of raising fibers on the grain-side of a hide to give a nap effect by buffing.
• Naked/Full-Aniline - Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a transparent dye which permeates the entire hide. However, there is no pigment (paint) or finish put on pure aniline-dyed leather to correct or hide imperfections. Best suited for light use.
• Semi-Aniline - Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a transparent dye, which permeates the entire hide. However, there is either a clear lacquer or slightly pigmented finish applied to improve resistance to wear and light. Slightly more durable than full-aniline.
• Pigmented - Hides that are aniline-dyed, then treated with a heavy pigment (paint) and top coating. Ideal for heavy use or active families.
• Corrected, Pigmented & Embossed - Pigmented leather that has been totally buffed of any imperfections, then embossed with an artificial grain to improve the appearance.
• Split - The bottom layer of the hide, which has been separated from the top grain. Split hides are generally weaker than top grain leather and may be used in less expensive upholstered furniture applications. Split hides are not recommended for heavy use.
• Suede - Process of raising fibers of the flesh-side of the hide to give a nap effect by buffing.
• Tanning - A technical process that converts raw hides into a non-perishable material called leather.

* This information provided courtesy of Guardsman Furniture Protection Company.

Different types of leather require different care and maintenance products.  If you are uncertain about the type of leather you have, check with your sales representative or contact the store where you purchased the item.  As a general rule of thumb, pretest all of the care products in a hidden area to make sure they are compatible with the leather.

To maintain the rich, natural look of your leather furniture, we offer the following general recommendations:

General Leather Care Tips

• Avoid using or placing sharp objects on leather goods.  Leather is very durable, but not accident or damage proof. 
• Place your furniture a minimum of two feet from radiators and other heat sources. 
• Protect your leather furniture from direct and even indirect sunlight.  Some leathers, such as full and semi-aniline, will fade over time. 
• Avoid air pollution such as cigar or cigarette smoke and cooking fumes, which can cause leather to fade or change color. 
• Keep leather free from dust by dusting with a cloth (such as the Guardsman Dust Cloth), preferably once a week. 
• Clean leather with Guardsman Leather Cleaner, preferably once a month if the furniture is used daily.  Minimally, this needs to be done four times a year.  Don’t rub!  Sponge gently until all grime and stains are absorbed. 
• Treat leather with Guardsman Leather Protector/Conditioner after each cleaning, to retain its softness and attractive appearance. 
• Blot spills up immediately.  Use Guardsman Leather Cleaner to remove the spill.  Please note:  Many common household cleaning products can cause severe damage and costly repairs, and improper cleaning may void your Furniture Protection Plan.

* This information courtesy of Guardsman Furniture Protection Company.

(ARA) - The use of mirrors in interior design hit its peak in the 1970s, when they could be found on walls, in architectural designs, and even on some ceilings. Over the next 10 years, their use declined, but designers are once again incorporating them into interiors to add substance to style.

With the addition of new shapes, edgings, decorative touches and even tasteful colors, mirrors are experiencing a renaissance.  As a result, many homeowners are faced with cleaning their mirrors, yet aren’t sure which materials to use.  Proper cleaning procedures must be followed to ensure the long-term performance of mirrors.

Although there are many cleaning products labeled as appropriate for mirrors, their maintenance is actually simple and inexpensive. The very best and safest cleaner for a mirror is clean, warm water used with a soft, lint-free cloth.  Wring all water from the cloth before wiping the mirror.  Dry the mirror immediately with a dry lint-free cloth.

When cleaning, the most important thing to remember is to always avoid getting the edges of the mirror wet with any liquid or substance.  This can result in damage to the mirror edges, commonly called “black edge.”  Should mirror edges become wet, they should be dried off immediately.

The following are recommended “dos and don’ts” from manufacturers of quality mirrors:

* Don’t use acid or alkali cleaners on mirrors.  Either substance can attack the front surface and edges as well as the backing of the mirror.  No abrasive cleaners should ever be used on any mirror surface.

* Don’t spray cleaners directly on the mirror.  Always apply cleaner directly to a soft, lint-free cloth and then wipe the mirror.  This will help prevent the cleaner from contacting the edges of the mirror and damaging them.

* Don’t clean across the face of multiple mirrors at the same time.  When cleaning several mirrors installed on a wall, wipe the joints in the same direction as the joints themselves.  This will keep the cleaner from collecting in the area where the mirrors join.

* Don’t use commercial mirror cleaners that contain ammonia or vinegar.

* Do use “0000” oil-free steel wool, not solvents, to remove surface marks or stubborn dirt.  Use of solvents can attack and damage the edges and backing of mirrors.

* Do use soft, lint- and grit-free cloths to clean a mirror.  This reduces the chances of scratching the mirror surface.

The last step to cleaning a mirror is to make sure all joints and edges are dry so that no liquid or cleaner comes into contact with the edges and backing.

Where to Find Additional Information

Members of the Mirror Division of the Glass Association of North America (GANA) encourage home owners, construction trades, general contractors, building owners and facility maintenance staff to be aware of proper cleaning procedures for mirrors and conditions that can adversely affect long-term performance.  Consult the GANA Mirror Division Web site (www.mirrorlink.org) for additional resources on mirror products and links to members providing additional technical resources.

Courtesy of ARAcontent